«Дизайн – мышление в фэшн индустрии»

Particularly important characteristics of a package of materials are a set of indicators that determine the stability of the thermophysical properties of the product and its reliability. Such indicators are the elasticity of the package of materials, deformation properties, rheological coefficients, the distribution of the mass of the insulation inside the clothing package under the action of compressive stress.Taking into account the dynamics of changes in these characteristics, for specific operating conditions and the preservation of the tar-protective properties of the clothing package, it is necessary to choose the optimal constructive solution for workwear, to make the correct selection of materials and package design.Considering the issue of measuring the rheological characteristics of soft bags and finished samples with bulk heaters, it is necessary to cancel that the physical characteristics of the shell of the bags and finished samples affect the rheological characteristics of bulk heaters. However, an accurate analysis and calculation of these values ​​is not possible.For bulk heaters, transverse deformation occurs, which, when the thickness of the packages changes, leads to the squeezing of materials out of the pressure zone, and therefore distorts the measurement results.The calculation of the geometric parameters of the insulation packages is associated with the physical and mechanical properties of the shell materials and the insulation pad. PhysСписок используемой литературы1. Данцова Т.Ф. Проектирование одежды с объемным утеплителем: учеб. пособие для вузов / Т.Ф. Данцова, Т.В. Денисова, Е.Е. Руденко.- Шахты: ЮРГУЭС, 2009.-133 с.2. Назаренко Е.В. Исследование и разработка теплозащитной одежды с перо-пуховым утеплителем с вертикальным простегиванием: Дисс. канд. техн. наук / Назаренко Е.В. – Шахты, 2007.-139 с.3. ГОСТ 12.4.236-2007 Одежда специальная для защиты от пониженных температур.4. ГОСТ 12.4.103-83 Одежда специальная защитная, средства индивидуальной защиты рук и ног.5. Лопатченко Т.П. Исследование и разработка теплозащитного снаряжения спасателей МЧС:Дисс. канд. техн. наук / Т.П. Лопатченко.-Шахты,2002.- 202 с.1. Янкелевич, В. И. Перенос тепла в условиях плоского ветеркового калориметра [Текст] / В.И. Янкелевич // Известия высших учебных заведений. Технология легкой промышленности - 1971. — № 6. — С. 81-84. — Библиогр. : с. 84.2. Янкелевич, В. И. Расчет теплового сопротивления воздушных прослоек в воздухопроницаемой одежде [Текст] / В.И. Янкелевич // Известия высших учебных заведений. Технология текстильной промышленности-1971. - № 2(81). - С. 111 -115. - Библиогр. : с. 115.3.Янкелевич, В. И. Перенос тепла через воздухопроницаемые материалы[Текст] / В.И. Янкелевич // Известия высших учебных заведений. Технологиятекстильнойпромышленности -1971. --№ 1(80).-С. 104-107. -Библиогр. : с. 107.4. Li, Y. Mathematical simulation of heat moisture transfer in a human-clothing-environment system [Text] /-Y. Li, V. Holcombe /7 Textile Res. -1998. - N68(6) - 389-397 p.5. Qui, Y. Modeling for Suppression of moisture/temperature induced dimensional changes in unbalanced fibrous composite structures whit perfect bonding [Text] / Y. Qui, S. Backer// Textile Res. - 1998. - N68(1) - 1-9 p.6.Belkacemi, K. Air flow through textiles at high differential pressures [Text] / K. Belkacemi, A.D. Broadbent // Textile Res. - 1999. - N69( 1) - 52-58 p.7. Бринк И.Ю. Исследование воздействия ветра на пакеты теплозащитной одежды при ветровой нагрузке [текст] / И.Ю. Бринк, Е.О. Лебедева // Швейная промышленность. - 2005. - №3. - С. 34-36.8. Корнюхин, И. П. Метод расчета воздухопроницаемости тканей в окрестности передней критической точки в условиях обдува (ветра) [Текст] / И.П. Корнюхин, И.В. Пятенков // Известия высших учебных заведений. Технология текстильной промышленности - 2001. - № 2(260). - С.119 -123. —Библиогр. : с. 123.9. Вадковская,Ю.В. Климатофизиологическое обоснование районирования СССР [Текст]./ Ю.В.Вадковская //Вопросы прикладной антропологии.-Л.:1960.-с.120-13110.Лиопо, Т.Н. Климатические условия и тепловое состояние человека [Текст] / Т.Н. Лиопо, Г.В. Циценко.- М.: Гидрометеоиздат, 1971.- 151с.11. ГОСТ 16350-80. Климат СССР. Районирование и статистические параметры климатических факторов для технических целей [Текст].- Введ. 01.07.81.-М.: Изд-востандартов, 1981. - 65 с.12. Scholander, P.F. Heat regulation in some arctic and tropical mammals and bird [Text] / P.F. Scholander, R. Hork, V. Walters // Biol. Bull. - 1950.-Vol. 99, №2. - p. 225-246.13. Быков, K.M. Учебникфизиологии [Текст] / K.M. Быков. - Изд. 3-е. -М.:Медгиз, 1955.-892 с.14. Бекмурзаев Л.А. Исследование материалов и проектирование швейных изделий на базе композиционных систем: Монография / Л.А. Бекмурзаев, Т.В. Денисова, Е.В. Назаренко и др.; под общ. Ред. Д.т.н., проф. Л.А. Бекмурзаева.-Шахты: ГОУ ВПО «ЮРГУЭС», 2009.-125 с.15. Бузов Б.А. Материаловедение в производстве изделий легкой промышленности (швейное производство) / Б.А. Бузов, Н.Д. Алыменкова. – М.: Академия, 2004.-444 с.An example of shear deformation can serve as areas of clothing in the area of ​​the side seams of the jacket, elbow seams of sleeves, step seams of trousers, inner sides of boot tops.If we consider the typical nature of human movements, then the most intense in frequency and deformation areas of clothing should be distinguished, such as:- shoulder support part (in this case we are talking about upper shoulder clothing);- the upper part of the side seam zone (under the armhole);- the upper part of the lower seam of the sleeve.A package with a voluminous incoherent insulation is compressed even under the action of relatively small forces. This is due to the looseness of the structure of volumetric incoherent heaters, the bulk of which is occupied by air.The volumetric incoherent materials inside the clothing package are a collection of non-oriented in space, interlocking elements, their complexes, individual elements and air. If we consider the feather-down mass, then such a mixture contains down, feather and a certain proportion of impurities, each of the elements of which is characterized by its own mechanical properties. Structural elements of feather-down insulation are not connected with each other, therefore, even with low pressure, individual fluffs and feathers can be separated from each other, moving directionally from areas with periodic varying loads towards areas of parts with lower pressures (with the bottom of the sleeves towards the top, from the side seams to the middle of the front and back). At the same time, there is a decrease in the initial thickness of the insulating pad, the accumulation of residual deformation, a decrease in porosity, an increase in the average density of the material, there is a tendency to a significant change in size, shape, density. The presence of all these changes is accompanied by a decrease in the total thermal resistance of clothing, both in individual areas and in the entire product, and, as a result, hypothermia of the human body.Compression deformation of a volumetric incoherent insulation is a complex process due to the chaotic arrangement of elements, an indefinite number of contact points and their location between the components of the insulation, squeezing out the air gap. At the same time, the distance between the constituent particles decreases, the contacts and the amount of adhesion increase. The complexity of the compression process is explained by the fact that the deformation process changes due to phenomena not related to elasticity, such as crushing at the points of contacts, and at increased stresses, fracture, separation into separate parts and destruction of the components of the insulating mixture ...Under the influence of pressure, the elements of the feather-down mass, which have a loose structure, are embedded in each other, mutually engaging with grooves and hooks. During shear deformation, the elements of the volumetric non-connected insulation, as a result of the mechanical engagement of the elements with each other, move, dragging other components along with them.Under the influence of a large value of loading after the compression of the material, the adhesion of the particles to each other, one part of the insulation moves relative to the other under the action of pressure. In this case, the individual parts lose their adhesion to each other and are separated from one another. At the moment of shear deformation, a volumetric disconnected insulation exhibits properties characteristic of liquids - "fluidity", which can be described by the viscosity coefficient. This deformation mechanism makes it possible to explain the hysteresis nature of the compression-recovery curves of feather-down insulation.The adhesion between the constituent elements of disconnected insulation arises due to the dual nature: friction and the presence of tenacity, and can be carried out in the following ways:- mutual introduction of the constituent elements of the insulation;- molecular adhesion of surfaces;- mutual engagement of macroroughnesses (barbs, hooks).These types of connection will depend on the magnitude of the compressive stress, the rate of application of the load, the structure, shape, geometric and mechanical characteristics of the contacting elements and their elastic properties. During the operation of heat-protective clothing, the volumetric incoherent heaters that make up the package experience all of the listed types of deformation: compression, bending, shear. The deformation characteristics obtained during the compression of materials serve to identify their structural features and are interrelated with the physical and mechanical characteristics of the packages formed from the materials under study. In this regard, the study of the process of compression of heaters is of particular interest. To solve the issues of improving the quality of products with voluminous incoherent insulating materials, a fairly accurate study of the properties of these insulators is required. The most important are deformation properties, which is due to the fact that during the entire operation process the product is subjected to various multiple deformations. Depending on the magnitude and mode of deformation in time, partial or complete restoration of the original thickness of the package occurs. Insufficient consideration of the viscoelastic properties ofThe heat-shielding properties of the finished product established by the current regulatory documentation are valid for standard design solutions and the use of traditional materials and for established climatic regions. This allows only an approximate forecast of the heat-shielding properties of the kit as a whole. It is most important to take into account the change in the heat-shielding properties of special clothing during the period of operation as a result of the impact of meteorological and industrial environmental factors.The thermal insulation properties of clothing are made up of inert air layers enclosed in a bag of clothing. Under the conditions of wind impact, convection in materials and in the underwear space is enhanced, reducing the thermal effect of a set of clothes. The thermal resistance of materials when exposed to wind is more influenced by the value of air permeability and, to a lesser extent, by the thickness of the package of materials. In this case, it is assumed that a certain value of the air permeability of the package is determined by the main fabric or a special windproof pad. Under conditions of exposure to wind, the difference in the total thermal resistance for different sections of clothing with different thickness of the package of materials is smoothed out. This is explained by the fact that convection intensifies with increasing thickness. With an increase in wind speed, the air permeability of the upper material is of the greatest importance in maintaining the thermal insulation properties of special clothing.The operational properties of clothes with incoherent insulation, such as the amount of thermal insulation, depend on the ability to restore its original thickness, the reversibility of the structure (feather-down mass) of the insulation. The functional properties of special clothing for protection from the cold and its amount of thermal insulation depend, along with other factors, on thermal conductivity, air permeability, water permeability of the materials that make up the package. The thermal conductivity of a clothing package is inversely related to the density of the insulation. To preserve the initial design characteristics, it is necessary to preserve the original density of the insulating layer for a certain period of operation.It is the stability of the initially laid down heat-protective characteristics of clothing that determines its quality relative to the main protective function. It is in the case when the heat-insulating package is formed not layer-by-layer from the selected canvases, but by filling the calculated amount of incoherent insulation into the prepared compartment of the product, the presence of a significant amount of air pores in such a compartment can lead to a reduction in the design thickness of the heat-shielding layer at actual operation in places of intense squeezing.During the operation of special clothing, the insulating layer is subjected to multiple compression deformations under the influence of increased wind load and human movements. When a package of materials is blown by the wind, forced convection of the underwear space occurs, and the air gap is removed. As a result of all these changes, the thermophysical properties of the package of materials as a whole decrease.Human pressure during operation is an additional cyclic load on the inner side of the garment bag. As a result, there is a forced squeezing of the package of materials, redistribution of the disconnected insulation in the compartments allocated for it.When a person is in motion, he introduces deformation into the formed system of the thermal insulation package of clothing. Such a mechanism can also be manifested when a bag of clothing is exposed to pressure originating from a support in certain areas of the product itself.The process of deformation of an incoherent insulation does not obey the usual relationships between the strength of materials and the theory of elasticity. When a porous material is compressed, which is a volumetric incoherent insulation, deformation of the seal occurs, while the volume of the investigated insulation decreases. Depending on the type of product and on the topography of individual sections of clothing, the complex of mechanical effects on the heat-shielding package can be represented by compression and shear deformation.After removing the loads, the insulation is evenly distributed over the area of ​​the bag compartment by whipping the clothes after removing it.Compression deformation of the insulating layer when a person moves is observed in the upper part of the front and back of the jacket, as well as in the hips of the trousers.The impact on the bag is due to the periodic tension of the blood tissue of the product. At insignificant tensions, the insulation is squeezed, inert air is squeezed out of it.In Russia, there are a number of companies that specialize in the production of heat-protective clothing, in particular, with down-padded insulation. These are "Bask", "Kariguz", "Cycling", BVN "Engineering" and others. The main assortment of manufactured products is sports and special heat-protective clothing.According to experts, the heat-shielding properties of outerwear by 70% depend on the design of the product, the fabrics used, the method of processing, etc., and by 30% - on the insulation used in outerwear.The formation of heat-protective clothing is carried out by completing a multi-layer package of materials from the top fabric, the insulating layer and the lining of the product. The thermophysical characteristics of the insulation layer, which has the main function in providing the necessary thermal insulation of clothing, depend on the thickness of the layer and the nature of the fibrous composition of the insulation. A promising high-quality heat-shielding material is the feather-down mass of waterfowl, which is called "natural air conditioner". Clothes using natural natural material - fluff are still relevant, and in some cases are simply irreplaceable. Down clothes are very light and warm at the same time, they will warm both in severe frost and in chilly weather at temperatures slightly below zero. Down fills the entire free volume inside the garment, therefore, the air heated by the body is better retained inside.The structure of such a heater determines the design of clothing parts, which are divided into compartments that prevent the feather-down mass from knocking down the product. When designing heat-protective clothing of this type, it is necessary to take into account the configuration of the compartments and the change in their dimensions after filling with a feather-down mixture (Figure 9).Figure 9 - downy mixtureAs a rule, in heat-protective clothing, the lines of fastening materials with an insulating layer are performed in the horizontal direction, but the horizontal lines of quilting visually increase the volume of the figure, when taking into account changes in the geometry of the packages when giving them a volumetric-spatial shape, the longitudinal and transverse dimensions, thickness increases. In the areas of parts with periodically changing loads, a movement of the feather-down insulation towards the areas of parts with lower amplitude values ​​of pressure is observed (from the side seams to the middle of the back and front parts, from the lower parts of the sleeves towards the upper ones). The influence of these drawbacks can be significantly reduced by using bags with vertical quilting. In this case, the volumetric-spatial form of heat-shielding bags is created when they are bent in the area of ​​the quilting line. The quilting line plays the role of an axis relative to which there is an angular displacement of adjacent compartments relative to each other.Vertical quilting allows you to achieve a visible slenderness and silhouette solution of heat-protective clothing, which is not unimportant for the consumer, but causes certain difficulties in determining the relationship between the geometric characteristics of the compartments of the heat-shielding package and the distribution of the density of the feather-down composition along their height.